Growing Gourds

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 height="100%"><tr> <td valign="top" width=160 BGCOLOR="#0000BF" TEXT="#F7F7FF"> <div> <A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Sarahs Purple Martins Bluebird Trail"><U><B>Home</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id31.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Site Journal"><U><B>Site Journal</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id95.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Becoming A Martin Landlord"><U><B>Becoming A Martin Landlord</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id192.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="My Martin Colony"><U><B>My Martin Colony</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id27.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple Martin Pictures"><U><B>Purple Martin Pictures</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id96.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple MartinFest "><U><B>Purple MartinFest </B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id188.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Emergency Supplemental Feeding"><U><B>Emergency Supplemental Feeding</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id329.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Project Purple Martin"><U><B>Project Purple Martin</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id330.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple Martin Links"><U><B>Purple Martin Links</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id34.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Predator Control"><U><B>Predator Control</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id29.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bluebird Trail"><U><B>Bluebird Trail</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id30.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Tree Swallows "><U><B>Tree Swallows </B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id286.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Cliff Swallows"><U><B>Cliff Swallows</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id86.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Creative Innovations"><U><B>Creative Innovations</B></U></A></div> <div> <B>Growing Gourds</B></div> <div> <A HREF="id33.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Downloads"><U><B>Downloads</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id307.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Monarch Butterfly"><U><B>Monarch Butterfly</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id279.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple Martin Articles"><U><B>Purple Martin Articles</B></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" BGCOLOR="#9999FF" TEXT="#080000"> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="0" CELLSPACING="0" WIDTH="575" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 347 ><NOBR><div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="557" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 211 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="96c78780.gif" border=0 width="120" height="120" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=CENTER WIDTH="295"><div> Sandy Bunn's Gourd Growing Recipe</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=CENTER><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="98054540.gif" border=0 width="84" height="84" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> Written By: <A HREF="http://www.entrancesbysandy.com/" TARGET="_self" TITLE="http://www.entrancesbysandy.com/"><U>Sandy Bunn</U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><U><IMG SRC="96ff13a0.gif" border=0 width="497" height="58" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 151 ><NOBR><bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="558" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 84 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="974414d0.gif" border=0 width="65" height="77" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=BOTTOM WIDTH="420"><div> For those who are interested, here is my method for growing gourds.  It is not the only way, just the way I do it....<B> </B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT></div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="970384d0.gif" border=0 width="56" height="77" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 2377 WIDTH="575"><bR> <div> <U>GROUND PREPARATION</U></div> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="422" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 251 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="9db90f40.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="244" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> My gourd patch is about 50' wide and 150' long. I have 15 “hills” in the patch.  I use the same hills over and over each year, and since gourds are fertilizer hogs, it is very important to add several sources of fertilizer each year.  Usually, the first step is to spray the area with Round-up in the fall before planting, but this year, I made the decision too late for that. This area is infested with wire grass (poor man's bermuda). This stuff is nasty to deal with, as the roots go 12" deep. It will take several applications of Round-up and a year or two just eliminate most of it. Since I didn't spray last fall, I will have real problems with this section this year. Each pink flag will be a hill. They are 20' apart.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="CAC Krazy Legs" > </FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 327 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="9d990400.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="320" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> The first year is by far the hardest amount of work because I start my hills by digging a hole that is 3' in diameter and 1' deep.  </div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 236 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a2090e50.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="229" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> This is how I mix my soil and compost since I am doing so many hills. The concrete mixer is not needed for just a few holes. After digging the hole, I add 2 bags of composted cow manure to the dirt I just dug from the hole, and mix well, using a shovel.  Also, while mixing I add 2 cups of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 2 cups of lime.  The lime is to prevent blossom end rot.  Blossom end rot is the flower falling off of the fruit before it can “set”.  While this is not necessary, it does provide the opportunity for the fruit to “set” quicker.  And, if available, I like to add at least one dead starling or house sparrow at the bottom of each hole. ;-)  </div> <bR> <div> Anyway, once I have mixed the composted cow manure, dirt, fertilizer, and lime, I put this mixture back into the hole I dug.  Since I added the cow manure, I now have mixture that is more than the amount of dirt I dug out, so it forms a hill.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>  </B></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 279 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a3290100.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="272" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> In the center of the hill, I dig a hole into which I place a metal 1 lb coffee can or large dog food can, which has both ends cut out.  You want the top of the can level with or just above, the top of the soil.  I, then, pull the dirt back around the can and fill the can up with pea gravel.  This can serves 2 purposes.  One is as the can rusts and breaks down; it adds trace minerals to the soil mixture that can be utilized by the plants.  It also, provides a place for me to put my drip irrigation nozzles so that the water has a direct route to the roots of the plants, and does not runoff to be wasted.  In following seasons, the work is not as hard, since the original hole is already dug.  All I do is dig out the loose soil, add the 2 bags of composted cow manure, fertilizer, and lime.  I do this about 2-3 weeks before I am ready to plant so that the fertilizer and lime have time to start breaking down.</div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1039 WIDTH="575"><bR> <bR> <div> <U>STARTING SEEDS INDOORS</U></div> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 295 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a1d90200.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="288" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> I soaked my seeds for 36 hours in unsweetened tea. The tea starts to soften and break down the seed coat because of the tannic acid in the tea. Then, I planted them and 48 hours later I have approximately 25 seeds already sprouting. This is the hotbox I use. There is an old waterbed heater under the pans which keep the box at 85 degrees. The shotgun shell boxes are holding up a piece of clear acrylic that I use for a lid to hold in the moisture.</div> <bR> <div> I start my seeds inside using 3” peat pots.  I have built a little heated rooting box from wood, a piece of clear acrylic plastic, and an old waterbed heater.  This provides a moist environment that has the temperature controlled to 85-90 degrees.  I put 3 seeds per pot.  I plant the seeds one week before I intend on setting them out in the patch.  In my area, I want my plants in the ground on April 1st. This is risky because there is still a frost potential, but I just pay attention to the weather and cover the plants if I need to.  </div> <bR> <div> If you start the plants inside, it is important not to start them to early.  You must get them into the ground before the root has an opportunity to break through the peat pot because gourd plants do not transplant well.  The roots damage very easily.  Also, the young plants will get too tall if not placed out in the sun.  The plants will lay over and usually not recover.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>  </B></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B><IMG SRC="9751e1c0.gif" border=0 width="30" height="28" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B><B> </B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#990033" FACE="Cooper Black" ><A HREF="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed/info/6.1.html" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wilds"><U>Click here</U></A> to see a USDA plant hardiness map</FONT><B> <IMG SRC="9751e1c0.gif" border=0 width="30" height="28" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <bR> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 772 WIDTH="575"><div> <U>TRANSPLANTING SEEDS IN THE GARDEN</U></div> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 326 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a9b903f0.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="319" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> For the first week or two after transplanting, the plants will appear dormant, alive but just not doing anything.   This is OK so don't worry about it.  Once they start running, they will grow over 1' a day.  I put 3 peat pots per hill, so that gives me a total of 9 potential plants per hill.  I, also, crank up my drip irrigation system and set it so that it applies about 3 gallons of water, to each hill, every other day.  This is done with a timer.  The drip nozzles have the capability of delivering 10 gallons per hour.  I set the timer on the system to 15-20 minutes.  Then, other than keeping out a “frost” watch, I don't do anything else except apply Sevin dust, if needed, to control insects.  I only use Sevin when the plants are young.  Once they are strong and running, I don't do any kind of insect control.  Any imperfections in a dried gourd can easily be covered with Elmer's Wood filler and sanded, or just ignored.</div> <bR> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1035 WIDTH="575"><div> <U>CARE & WATERING</U></div> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 307 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a9d902c0.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="300" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Once the plants start running, I thin the plants out to 1 plant per peat pot, so that makes 3 plants per hill.  Don't thin until the plants start running.  The first plant to sprout is not always the best plant or the strongest plant; so let them start running to see which is the strongest.  Also, at the point, I increase the water supply to 5 gallons per day and use a Miracle Gro hose feeder, inserted in the hose line, to feed Miracle Gro fertilizer once a week until the last week of June.  After the last week of June, I do not fertilize anymore.  Once significant growth has occurred, I increase the water supply to 10 gallons per day.  All irrigating takes place starting at 7:00 AM.</div> <bR> <div> Once the main runner, the male part of the plant, reaches a length of 10'-12', I cut off the terminal end.  Anytime, you prune the terminal end of a plant, you force more growth to the lateral branches.  I keep a close eye on the lateral branches, or female parts of the plant for the set of fruit. Once a fruit has set on a lateral branch, I prune that branch off just beyond the fruit.  This forces most of the nutrients going into that branch, to go the fruit. I do not do any hand pollinating.  Once each plant has 5-6 gourds that have set, and started growing, I keep all other fruits pruned off.  After the 5-6 gourds are of a decent size, I just let the plants go wild and do no pruning.  This will insure of at least 5-6 huge thick-shelled gourds per plant, plus many others that are very much usable.  Plus, by this time, the plants have become intertwined, I would do more damage trying to prune them that by just leaving them alone.  I do walk the patch daily looking for fruits, and set them upright once I find them.  This produces nicely shaped gourds with flat bottoms.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>  </B></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 2438 WIDTH="575"><div> <U>I</U><U>RRIGATION SYSTEM</U></div> <bR> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 279 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a3490100.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="272" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> It is hard to see, but there is a 1/2" main water line going down between the hills. The feeder tubes come off of this line. You can see the line coming towards me that leads to the other half of the patch.</div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="421" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 282 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="a3690130.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="275" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> This shows the feeder tube that runs from the main water line. Right now, each hill is receiving 5 gallons of water every other day. </div> <bR> <div> You should be able to buy all the pieces needed at <A HREF="http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=home" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=home"><U>Lowe's Home Improvement Center</U></A> that I use to rig up my drip irrigation system.  <A HREF="http://www.homedepot.com/" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.homedepot.com/"><U>Home Depot</U></A> should also have this stuff or something very similar.  At Lowe's, it is located in the plumbing department on the shelves with the underground irrigation stuff for your yard.  This stuff is easy to work with and only a utility knife in the way of tools. The prices shown are for here in Rocky Mount, NC</div> <bR> <div> <B><U>TIMER</U></B></div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="CAC Krazy Legs" >I am using a </FONT><A HREF="http://www.rainbird.com/" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.rainbird.com/"><U>Rain Bird</U></A> WTA-1875 timer<FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="CAC Krazy Legs" >.  It operates on 2 AA batteries. Lowe's didn't have any in stock and I couldn't find the place on the shelf for them, but it was approximately $25.00.  They did have another brand that was $20.00.  You do not need anything fancy here, just the ability to cut on and off once a day, or every other day and the ability to adjust the amount of time per day.  It is located in the garden department.</FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B><U>FERTILIZER APPLICATOR</U></B></div> <bR> <div> This should be located in the garden department. I use <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >"MiracleGro No Clog 4in1 Feeder"  Model 300403  $6.97</FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B><U>FERTILIZER</U></B></div> <bR> <div> I use the <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >MiracleGro All Purpose Plant Food</FONT> that comes in packs that you just dump into the Feeder listed above.  </div> <bR> <div> The rest of this stuff is located in the plumbing department with the underground irrigation stuff.</div> <bR> <div> <B><U>MAIN LINE</U></B></div> <div> Comes in two lengths...</div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Poly Tubing   ½” X 50'   long ~ MLT-71  $7.86</div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Poly Tubing   ½” X 100' long ~ MLT-72   $13.84</div> <bR> <div> If you need to join two pieces together, as I did, you will need a connector... </div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Coupling ~ MLF-36  $2.14</div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper End Fitting MLF-50  $1.27</div> <div> (to close off the open end of tubing)</div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Hose Fitting MLF-33 $1.87</div> <div> (enables you to connect poly tubing to garden hose) </div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="http://www.misterlandscaper.com/" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.misterlandscaper.com/"><U>*MISTER LANDSCAPER WEB SITE*</U></A></div> <bR> <div> <B><U>Drip Lines</U></B></div> <div> Mister Landscaper 30' long, Black Connector vinyl tubing ~ MLT-B30 $3.65 per 30' <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="CAC Krazy Legs" > (cut this tubing to the lengths you need)</FONT></div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Hole Punch Tool ~ MLA-51  $2.14</div> <div> (punches hole in poly tubing for connectors that attach the vinyl tubing listed above, also includes some plugs in case of mistake)</div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper ¼” Barb X Barb Connector ~ 15 per pack</div> <div> MLT-BXB $3.14 <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="CAC Krazy Legs" >(connects vinyl tubing to poly tubing)</FONT></div> <bR> <div> Mister Landscaper Adjustable Dripper Stakes ~ MLD-STA, 3 per pack, $3.27</div> <div> (can be adjusted from 0 to 10 gallons per hour)</div> <bR> <div> I leave mine wide open and do my adjusting of amount of water used with timer-simply stick the stakes into the pea gravel in the coffee can I mentioned in my gourd growing techniques.</div> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 330 WIDTH="575"><div> <U>HARVESTING</U></div> <bR> <div> This year, I just did not have time to harvest the gourds like I usually do.  I usually harvest the gourds shortly after their stems turn brown, but after this year, I will stop doing that.  Because I left the gourds in the patch until December, they had dried and cured faster, so that will be my method from now on.</div> <bR> <div> I will be acquiring a digital camera here shortly, so when I do, I will post pictures of my patch in its early stages, showing the irrigation system, cans, hills, etc. I, also, believe in planting seeds from only one gourd, this insures that all the plants have the same genetic lineage.</div> <bR> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 512 ><NOBR><div> <B><U> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="419" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006600" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#00BF00 > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 393 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="98290820.jpg" border=0 width="400" height="386" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></U></B></div> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="96ef13a0.gif" border=0 width="497" height="58" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <bR> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 286 WIDTH="575"><div> <U>PURCHASING GOURDS</U></div> <bR> <div> For those interested, Sandy also sells cured gourds. He has been growing gourds for over 5 years now. The average size gourd is 11" to 12" and they can be bought for $3.00 each. You can contact Sandy via <A HREF="mailto:sbunn1@suddenlink.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:sbunn1@suddenlink.net"><U>e-mail</U></A> to place your order or for further information.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B><IMG SRC="1266f4410.gif" border=0 width="500" height="65" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>